Bless up from your feet to your head top
We go again,
As you can very well tell, this website journals about fashion on the most part. The reason for this is I felt that the ideas and concepts put forth by black designers or contemporary to the old norm, were not being journaled properly.
The culture I grew up in was spoken about in a less than form, or even worse “that thing over there” and when they called it streetwear or contemporary fashion it would annoy me because the fair majority would dress in that way. Which is why it’s Fashion and contemporary to nothing, other things are now old hat
There was a real ugly period from 2011 – 2016. Where the people writing about Fashion from black Fashion Designers would speak down, look down and write with a certain type of side eye about my brothers and sisters. They are designers. As simple as that and they reference and have studied just like all the other designers in the world.
It’s not a question of being better or worse it’s the understand of what is the new norm and as history will tell it the black fashion designers were ahead of the curve which is why this subject is extremely exciting to me. So I write about the leadership and foresight shown by those in the list are the reason for this list.
Shane Oliver
The leader of the Hood By Air collective and movement who started in New York with all his pals in soho living life like artist and trendsetters. When I was younger I would hear a lot about Soho and that crew because of ASAP Rocky and Ian Connor. There are stories and nuggets even someone from Britain would hear.
I appreciated his outstanding nature and as the story goes, Shane along with Ian Isaiah and many other names really bought together the hood by air incubator of talent. Coming out the gate shouting this is us and because of that received so many arrows in the back for all of the things they were doing which were then copied. But the essence never left.
Shane would soon leave making fashion items and throwing shoes because of how the industry would treat him but now there is a real bid for him to come back and bring back that essence Hood By Air one had. This is now history and I’m really looking forward for what he would do in the future for more history and how he would share with us his experience of doing fashion, with the audacity of being black.
Kerby Jean-Raymond Pyer Moss
Kerby suffered just like Shane suffered, even more so he suffered alone with no real support system or friends, only his love for fashion, sneakers and black people he put himself in positions to be under the tutelage of people who were willing to teach. This however didn’t stop him from being robbed backstabbed and contractually broke Kerrie went through it not only financially but with the killing of unarmed black men by cops Kerby hard only one way to express himself, through his collections.
They showed the real angst of being a black man under tyranny. This hurt the white people’s feeling a lot and they all felt the need to act out against him and effectively put up wall to ward him and his work from growing. But as of recent with his reebok deal Kerby is able to support himself again.
He is only picking up steam and his Pyer Moss Reebok DMX is turning the heads of sneaker heads everywhere. Making them look at him positively also putting clear light on his collections too and he is delivering all 2019. This will only pick up more momentum as the time goes on and hopefully he will reach greater heights in the 20’s.
Telfar(Global) Clemens
Someone I’ve been following for a long while now Telfar is a true artist. Been at this for a long time and been truly a man after the craft from the collections I’ve seen. Since 2015 I’ve enjoy watching his growth. Someone I’m fairly new to and whole history of 14 years hasn’t been discussed says a lot because it’s not like he’s been asleep his really been working. Currently I’ve been looking at his tote like a luxury item I would love to have and I have been drawing it in my fashion illustrations giving a lot away.
Telfar also gained the 2017 Vogue fund finally getting into the eyes of the “masses” which has had him referencing his older collections or rehashing his archive for a while. But soon the girls will be all caught up and get where he is coming from. Having been in the game for so long, I am sure he really put that money to good use preparing for everything that will happen next decade I feel he’s gearing up for something just like Shane and Ian. Having worked together it’s plain to see The New York scene is turning into a hub for established designers
Stay composed and keep your neck up
Whatever Moves Your Dial
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