#VintageBlackGlamour – Damilare Debut as Curatorial Editor of Voices In Fashion

There was a time when I noticed that I was the first instance someone was seeing a black person not fed to them on the media. I remember when I was a teen and I was the token black friend and dealt with terrible behaviour because of it.

Then I went to university and saw a different world, intermingling with people of different regions cities counties socioeconomic background ethics and different classes who had never met a black person before. All they saw was what was shown to them on the news, this was a time before social media.

Now we have social media to amplify the stickiest subject matter that happens to be disturbing imagery. I’m still seen as one of the good ones, so at best I’m guessing it isn’t the most endearing imagery of blacks people they have seen, to have this opinion and have never met one.

That being said I discover that imagery and media are a drastic factor in how people will perceive entire communities they have zero interaction with in the real life. So in many ways I’m a token non threatening avatar. There were many instances where I hated that part of my life, legitimately felt like Pinocchio ‘trying to be a real boy’ and not have the standard of what people think of a black person on me. it’s hard frustrating and restrictive, as no matter what if you show you’re human, who makes mistakes, one time, they wipe out your whole history and initiate the “I always knew there was something…”

I say that to say, dealing in black imagery is very agonising to live through, extremely dense characters are part of your audience and many black people feel like the have to shuck and jive till the make it home. There are others now who welcome the challenge and endear themselves to the ideal of, only black person in the room, ‘my presence is representation’, ‘I am one of the good ones’, ‘black people are sluggish lazy, stupid and unconcerned but not me’. Which is enough to make this a very political game at every phase of life, this goes all the way to the top.

This is all my understanding, before I really cared about fashion writing and black supermodels. What hits the most to me is the monotony of the monopoly of black womens imagery. It upset me enough to start my career out talking about needing more black supermodels then doubling down and speaking up about the fetishisation of our extremes of either light or dark skin. Black people with albinism and those with hyperpigmentation, namely Sudan models.

How I developed interest was in part protest and just knowing better, over time images I have saved and curated around black imagery that has a multifaceted appeal quality and diversity.

I call it vintage black glamour as it is more than just Black people in fashion or in books that are out of print it is the worlds worth of Africans that are who they are and someone has taken a snapshot of them doing it, being themselves. Some of the best works I can say conceived surrounding black people. I had wondered if I should make a page about this but there’s enough. My pages are built with this ethos regardless. So this isn’t about an @ it’s about a life choice, to share black people as is. Beauty splendour rugged Curt firm coarse gritty bright and everything in between.

My enemy is peoples decision to not have quality control in their lifestyle choices of media they share. Nobodies perfect and there are some amazing pages out there there’s just a story that needs to be told and I want to teach and open myself up to that journal properly. If you’re with me follow Voicesin Fashion on Instagram and Twitter

Meet with me on this journey every week on the voices in fashion page for updates

Dynamism of New Bottega |Bottega Veneta Flashy designs under Daniel Lee

bless up from your feet to your head top

we go again,

Daniel Lee’s Bottega Veneta is a lesson in creating a look without saying you’re creating a look.

It was fun to say Bottega is doing this and that. As in being hidden with the logos and not having ads and not paying influencers etc etc.. for a while. Bottega is known for being a stealthy brand that us seen and not heard, however under daniel lee, it was both for the full tenure in a head line or celebrity post constantly.

Daniel lee created collection after collection built with an aesthetic and an expressionist brush, as he sees it.

After the pandemic, (if there is even such a thing) Daniel Lee gave us the biggest post-pandemic vibes with FALL 2021 RTW. this latest collection. Creating a Bottega in his own image. A loud and experimental decision that paid in visibility.

Looking closely at the tapestry he is building he is seen to create a design language of expressionism in his designs. Giving us something new, with Bottega we are under the presupposition it has the foundation of minimalism, pushing the feeling of luxury and craftsmanship. What we see with Daniel Lee’s design is a progression I’m seeing with his ready to wear collections as one in all a continuity of storytelling that is telling a story that doesn’t live under the presupposition when we see Bottega Veneta. First I thought it was just the bags.  And him creating an ‘IT-BAG’ then I was like… that’s weird… that’s suspicious. Bottega bags aren’t supposed to be loud or ostentatious, in two minds, seeing him pushing the intrecciato to the extreme at the same time, is this Bottega.

Now let us think… the point of the ‘IT-BAG’ is for it to let you know it exists. Bottega prides itself on not having a logo using its masterful leather work do the talking – Italian excellence as per. Okay Daniel Lee Bags are doing that, it’s very clear, yet it’s an ‘IT BAG’ – (what a cool revelation) – it almost sounds oxymoronic to say a Bottega bag is an IT BAG when the definition endears itself to everyone knowing it exists. Then you look at the Bottega GREEN the most loud and clear sign of Bottega and we see the “New Bottega” ads, all these would not mean all that much if it wasn’t the phrase, ‘pride itself on fitting seamlessly into the owner’s wardrobe’ and the Bottega bags TODAY are loud statement items that are now IT BAGS which also translate to the 2001 definition of letting everyone knows it exists. 

The techniques are such today you can do so much with the intrecciato technique that it can be the most bold statement in fashion today winning awards, and every write up calling it an IT BAG, the design distinction doesn’t just stay there it also is prevalent in the ready-to-wear. Being a product of its times translating into today’s aesthetic of design which gets little to no awareness. It isn’t even a product of Phoebe Philo school of design. It’s a whole new schema using Italian futurism and likening itself to the Neo Futurism of today sensual lines and appealing details. An Art-Deco design aesthetic that is grandiose lets you know it’s here from a company that people are constantly writing about it’s minimalism.

The next thing everyone with sense will say is minimal isn’t simple designs they’re stripped down. Well, I’m counting multiple design elements that speak to New Bottega’s eccentricity, aesthetic and expressionism. The colours and silhouettes are inventive, renovating the shapes we can see today and adding a colourful lens to it. 

Bottega Veneta today expresses a culture of feeling possible futurism (looking directly at the colours) and the angular nature of the constructive elements of these garments. True Italian Vetement – boldly executed under the guise of minimalism… texture – colour – fit – cut all considerations in cultivating this “New Bottega” – seriously, people keep speaking about minimalism and post-pandemic woes and Daniel Lee for the past several years has been delivering a direct execution of expressionist art-deco of his making and futurism with an Italian artisan flare and intuitive style lines.

I can picture Daniel Lee staring at Umberto Boccioni  – ‘FUTURISTIC MAN’ – Forms Uniche Della Continuità Nello Spazio (Unique forms of continuity in space). The dynamism of a car but make it fashion, make it Neo-Futurist make it Bottega. I see the aerodynamic we will see in space-age mid-century architecture, function isn’t without beauty. 

The relevance of the 1930’s Aero DYNAMIC vehicles I can speak to the puddle boot directly taking reference from works like streamline KJ Henderson motorcycle. You can pull a car from that era and see the gratifying expression of sensual lines in the puddle boot giving it a distinctive not like the other designs today. That GT (Grand Tourer) vibe.

I am talking about the bags and the ready-to-wear in the same breath. Daniel lee’s design language indicates and expresses the need for futurism ‘In the Hardest of Times, it is important to still dream’ Daniel Lee said that, fathoming what he meant in terms of expression and futurism puts the aptest lens on the ‘so-called’ minimalist brands’ Bottega Veneta’s DNA.

This thorough direction gave me time to ruminate on why possibly Daniel Lee would execute this. Chewing on these ideas and design sentiment is one thing. The latitude to execute on design principles like these while the rules of the house stipulate a more stealthier approach, all that is left is conjecture at this point. Daniel lee’s tenure is over and his work is in a capsule, the reason for the mutual parting is in the air. The question I am readily asking is, with a stealth wealth, conspicuous consumption house like bottega why are the designs so loud, to me mixed messages were sent when being the most talked-about creative house – in Italy and being a leader in Kering’s top 3 Gucci Balenciaga and Bottega – why delete your social media. And digital footprint. Regardless of all that Bottega is still popular amongst Americas Hip-Hop Millionaires, and Nouveau Riche. There’s a complicated relationship with the consumer Bottega needs to control or go with. Changing with the times or sticking to your guns.

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

If you want to donate to help out this growing platform all patronage is welcome https://www.paypal.me/DYusuff

Follow my socials Instagram: @NYTypical Twitter: @ARAHofNYT

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS  

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write-ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays 

 On My series work

Spring Of The Rookie

Sickle Cell Companion

Reference articles

How Bottega Veneta became the most hyped brand of 2019
History of Intrecciato from Bottega Veneta – PURSE BLOG
Daniel lee wiki
ALL BOTTEGA VENETA COLLECTIONS – vogue runway
BOTTEGA HISTORY -PRET A VOI
Fashion Awards 2019: The full winners list- vogue Australia
BOTTEGA VENETA 101: A HISTORY – rebag 
THE BOTTEGA VENETA BIBLE – vintage bar
BOTTEGA VENETA -CATWALK YOURSELF
STEALTH WEALTH A SPOTTERS GUIDE – NEWS WEEK
Is It No Longer Cool To Look Rich? -READ A
Bottega Veneta Launches Fall-Winter 2011/2012 Advertising Campaign
Advertising, Fall/Winter 2002. Photography by Robin Broadbent.

Pre Millennium Bottega Veneta

Bless up from your feet to your head top

we go again,

To Honour the Youtube video that gives an overview of Bottega Veneta, this article is to deliver further context in the first phase of Bottega Veneta, prior to the acquisition by Gucci group

At the time Michele and Renzo made the decision to create Bottega Veneta, what I understand about this era is the Disco and Electronic music at the time all the colour that comes with the FREE LOVE MOVEMENT – Cocaine psychedelics and prosperity.

While in Italy going through the ebbs and flows of socialism fascism and anarchy. even after founding, terror attacks took place; 15 December 1969 then again in 1986 – due to civil unrest in the streets. Cultural divides and social classes have defined Italy for 2000 years.

Stealth Wealth was the answer for Michele and Renzo, prosperity in Europe has been met with Riots and Civil attacks. Creating something that is meaningful to an audience that wants something but can’t say they have it would be the keys to success

Bottega was founded in 1966 by Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro in Vicenza, Italy in 1966. The company began manufacturing in the ready-to-wear district, to where the sewing machines’ were not appropriate to work with leather.  This had the artisans come up with the intrecciato technique. that would be come the signature of Bottega – featuring in leather goods clothing and even glass-wear techniques, the Murano glassware features an intrecciato pattern hand-etched on the bottom of each piece. – and then on the parfum bottles also.

Due to the high quality of craftsmanship and the addition of the discreet no label design, popularity for the label grew. Intrecciato became synonymous with Bottega. Leading to an advertising campaign showcasing it’s discretion with a tag line of; ‘When your own initials are enough’.

The press around Bottega at these times is minimal probably based on the reasons stated above – The Clear lines of distinction between people like Gucci the celebrities of Italy and Bottega were clearly formed in these times. Gucci was Gaudy and Bottega was Chic. This would power Bottega through the 70’s and 80’s In a time till the loud and powerful became even more powerful and money was redistributed to the Jet setters of Tom Ford’s Gucci or Avant-garde of Japan and Antwerp in the late 80’s through to the 90’s

the topsy-turvey times of this period would have Bottega succumb to trend-led society away from their more stealthier roots which would come back after the 15 year period of Tom Ford’s reign heading Gucci. Which is more prevalent after Tomas took over the house where he brought it back to Bottega Veneta’s more stealthier conspicuous roots and created a motif fit for Bottega.

Bottega the quiet Giant at Kering had its day for 17 years under Tomas and then came back the days post stock market crash and depression where celebrity and flash would be in. Under Daniel Lee Bottega was flash and very well seen by the masses a far cry from its roots or how it was under Tomas’ tenure.

Bottega Veneta lives in a slippery place in fashion where it’s either their season or it’s not. The Culture truly decides whether consumption should be conspicuous or highly visible. Bottega Veneta seems to be in a constant negotiation with the consumer to see what they should bring as a leather goods company

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

If you want to donate to help out this growing platform all patronage is welcome https://www.paypal.me/DYusuff

Follow my socials Instagram: @NYTypical Twitter: @ARAHofNYT

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS  

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write-ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays 

 On My series work

Spring Of The Rookie

Sickle Cell Companion

Reference articles

How Bottega Veneta became the most hyped brand of 2019
History of Intrecciato from Bottega Veneta – PURSE BLOG
Daniel lee wiki
ALL BOTTEGA VENETA COLLECTIONS – vogue runway
BOTTEGA HISTORY -PRET A VOI
Fashion Awards 2019: The full winners list- vogue Australia
BOTTEGA VENETA 101: A HISTORY – rebag 
THE BOTTEGA VENETA BIBLE – vintage bar
BOTTEGA VENETA -CATWALK YOURSELF
STEALTH WEALTH A SPOTTERS GUIDE – NEWS WEEK
Is It No Longer Cool To Look Rich? -READ A
Bottega Veneta Launches Fall-Winter 2011/2012 Advertising Campaign
Advertising, Fall/Winter 2002. Photography by Robin Broadbent.