I wrote an article years ago now detailing how there was a need for black models. More highly supermodels. Many months ago I came to the conclusion that there needs to be a nurturing system in place to platform these women and cultivate their talents across the board, from perfume and commercial campaigns to editorial and more exclusive contracts, demanding a high price.
Like I said in my previous article it has nothing to do with Naomi she’s a queen and must get her coin however I also have the understanding that I can name black models by name Adut, Aweng, Anok, Imman Duckie are all on my list and I understand their needs to exist. The increase even in Darkskin models is lovely, can still name them all. Nothing wrong with that and I’m not even saying I want to see more of them in European shows what I am saying though is if having Afrocentric models was an intrinsic part of the process it wouldn’t be a sprinkle it would be people that I have never seen before and not the same high profile names walking the shows.
I do want to shout out @fewmodels and @modelsofcolour for sharing and cultivating runway talent. It’s important that there are agencies that care for their model’s looks and regimented needs. All important parts of the process in fostering growth in these young talents.
What Mowalola is doing though. The reason people call her #mummylola is she’s giving us reason to gage the importance of representation and the quality that is out there. Her girls are in any event from obscurity, obvious models with IT! she is giving to us is the formulae (which I won’t spill too much of) – to exhibit a style character and face to what you would consider the face of a house.
Representation matters and spaces matter a space where people can be free of the eye of critics and live as they are as well as be placed in the open unabashed and unashamed, never feeling the need to shrink themselves to fit in. Representation plainly should be an intrinsic part of the performance from the top down and Mowalola is doing that.
With recent events the fashion world has had to take some licenses to deliver us some work. I sincerely appreciate that and would like to get going by talking about Rick Owens
Rick Owens newest collection Pfor SS21 and I had the inclination to agree with some points.
What @hausofdarkwah was talking about was the interplay of Femininity from masculinity an how explorative some of Ricks earlier silhouette were, as well as unabashedly themselves and the possible muzzle that could have been put on the collection. The term Phlegethon being such a ferocious one meaning one of the Infernal rivers of the underworld you would ask yourself is this the story these clothes are telling and does this truly represent Rick?
As Ayo was saying this collection seems more commercial and buyable. The thing is though as Michael on the panel also said is that their is so much Rick on the market way past the asking and this can be seen as tame especially when faced with the Previous collections they almost seem diametrically opposed to one another the spirit of and infernal fire isn’t flowing like the underworld cult phenomenon Rick Owens usually would.
That being said the space and time that we are in can only have me ask what the possibilities would have been with full recourses would the colours rage in a conniption of Rick Flavour and styling Would the sets be in the pantheon of Rick Owens sets considering how the last collections flourished. I for one will accept this Rick as it is and on a fair setting agree and accept that there are acts of God at play
After reviewing Virgil’s most recent effort with Vuitton on my Youtube I thought I would writ an article about the growth and creativity displayed. Same thing with Samuel Ross I expect these men were angry with everything that was going on and felt pigeon holed into streetwear so decided to divert.
Personally Streetwear is menswear just as tech wear is and all other styles, It is really down to the artists influences. More of that on Current State of Menswear. Virgil seems to take influence from the many years living in America and being shown what a man is on TV and the dominant white culture over there.
What Virgil did was become a renegade of the ideas of old and chopped and screwed them as Black Culture does in the creative and to make them palatable for men today. What does a current 30 year old suit looks like “same as 100 years ago”… Not anymore What Virgil has done is give power and presence to a new man that is speaking today. As menswear gets bigger it is now time to influence all the faces that have no preconceived notions of what being a Man is.
That level of difference Virgil has in this show is given to us by the many different colour choices in duffle bag or hand pouch or fur hat and coat or very literally a chopped up suit.
Just as Kiko is doing we are getting new shapes and different patterns on display for how we perceive menswear. As I go on about the menswear revolution Everything I think is becoming more to light as they are displayed on the runway Display in texture/ colour/ patterns/ referencing/ layers.
The Suit is the ultimate form of layering from undershirt to shirt to tie, then waistcoat and blazer you may look at it as old hat but that is the very platform that menswear was founded upon and if you take those principles and stretch them over menswear essentials as Virgil did you get a really creative collection and we are going to see more like this where the runway is bound to dictate how men dress in the street much like Womens fashion for the past hundred years.
When I say Menswear revolution this is what I’m talking about never in the life of people who grew up outside the high society in Britain has there been this amount of men understanding quality clothing outside the luxury names and High fashion zeitgeist. Meaning Sam Has the opportunity to be the guy to walk all men down the aisle and be a fixed position in mens outside the view of people without station but work in stations. This is a British man from ends speaking to tandem and it can work which is what I mean by not playing the Prada (High society) game and play the game we know.