An Intro — Vibram the new player in industrial footwear and sneakers

We go again

I seen this name a couple of times in 2018 then it made headway all throughout 2019 I just had to write a quick blog about it.

It is effecting the culture and bridging the gap in tech for creating better footwear. The main thing about small footwear companies is the tech they use to make sneakers, it’s appalling and tough to stand on. There is nothing more uncomfortable than a company that doesn’t take in consideration the technology they use for soles.

Vibram is bridging that gap. Being a Development company that has been around for 80 years making mould for footwear and sport now they are rearing their head in the cultures companies.

If you didn’t know the creation of things like Boost, Zoom and Air technology is expensive to develop and takes so much time to research and test companies usually skimp on that part and chop together some sort of make shift model to sell to customers and if they do research the sneaker is incredibly expensive to buy because there is no mass production or order of the trainer (a topic for another day) simply put making a trainer is super expensive.

Vibram are the guys helping these companies getting the research out the way and focus on design. They have collaborated with the likes of Off White and Alyx removing the trouble of having these companies develop sole and midsole technology.

I really am keeping an eye on them but for now this is the intro to the sole company Vibram

Whatever Moves Your Dial

The Principle of the Housing Problem in the Millennial World

We Go Again,

I begrudgingly listen to my peers on things they have to say concerning ways of life they did not invent and try to decipher what it truly means to them. Today I was told that a house and a car is, a stable future & a priority & a pillar of strength and manliness.

I don’t worry that this is how people think, I don’t care what people’s philosophies are because part of mine is do good for humans. I care what people are programmed to think do to a complex, in built, societal norm that was invented for people who can’t think for themselves to accept such if they can’t find a better way of thinking.

That’s what a societal norm is. It’s the dogma of the average and don’t want to think for themselves. Why do I think this pursuit for a house is part of this? Mainly because I get freaked out when people blurt our the same quote but paraphrase it. I can’t lie that’s incredibly scary to me and feel of sorts. I can’t judge and don’t want to take away something from someone who’s clearly not thinking for themselves and I have no real intention of replacing how they think.

As a leader one must lead in a way apart from people, the achievements of the average/the masses are footnotes. That’s not to make anyone feel a type of way I just don’t feel the same way as this it doesn’t mesh with my philosophical or economic belief.

It’s much like the always there conversation I had years ago. What wrong with taking a year out understanding what you want from you and executing that instead we collate the sacrifice of Youth to adult ideas that were only made in the past century and are not the type of ideas that were meant to last. We’re worried about the wrong things, not existentially but in principle.

There’s no life principle or in your history that says having a house or car or 10 acres of land can change you or your families life. If that were true those of us making the worlds top 20% wage minimum of $30,000 would have bought the land in our village by now.

A house doesn’t mean a better life for your children. Even building the economy doesn’t do that, if you want to be part of the money making machines just say so. But trapping yourself into debt and mortgage payment does not free yourself, isn’t the remark of a free person and doesn’t make you seem better to your kids. Especially if at any point a recession hit and you aren’t ready, your direct debit goes up and you’re back up grinding on your knees. Nothing is wrong with any of that if it’s truly what you want you’d do it with a smile and no one could critique you for it.

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Not Your Typical

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An intro to Erollson Hughes Acronym

We go again,

The guy behind Nike ACG menswear and what the streets would call the AF1 Abomination and the great redeemer Acronym Presto and what I will call the father of origami jackets. Errolson Hughs

Who is Acronym?

acronym-fw-1516-15

Acronym started out as a contract design firm who made their seed money designing gear for extreme sports and branched our to a personal design company in 1999 to make their own gear developed in house. 2002 Acronym was set on to the scene making products for years before cross pollination.

With their outerwear aesthetic Michaela and Errolson have been slowly building a credible brand who has an amazing aesthetic with prices not for the light pocketed. Kickass code names and well made app areal for those who are really out here appreciating the samurai Techwear look

Industrial Techwear

The ideal behind these pieces are just so incredible. I’m a lover of industrial design and will continue to analyse and adore the creation fabric and contortion of materials. Learning all about plastics and how they can be moulded into becoming weather proof is something I hold in high regard; each thing being made out of plastic but the polymer constitution changes its properties.

Nike ACG

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What I know Errolson for the most for is the Nike ACG collaboration before I knew any details I saw him in the most well constructed garments I’ve seen made for a man. The ACG collaborations with Nike have been the most creative thing industrially I think Johanna has something to do with why this — spawning the morphing of the AirMax 180 and 270 for people to create their own versions (more of my thoughts on this later). — The well constructed garments are a wonder to look at the sliding pockets shell form zips Male the silhouettes minimal but are made with the most complex techniques. Whoever has been steering this Techwear ship at Nike in the past 3/4 years well done.

Air Force 1 and Presto

The sneakers have been a contentious for the AF1 the Acronym team kind of destroyed the detailing and added a zipper but it slowly became a grailed Force one. The Presto though, straight away it was loved and adored from my purview and grew as a cornerstone of Techwear functional technical and full of utility.


Editors Note

Errolson Hugh’s has had a great team around him all the way through forged their own path and created a 20 year old company with such a high value now I adore the ability to make something of that level.

The Renaissance of Techwear is here and soon will be the most prominent form of menswear design due to its technical construction

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Not Your Typical

#SneakerSunday May – Alyx Nike FreeRUN with vibram Cramp Sole

We go again,

Matthew williams edges mays best sneaker with the free run images just days before the month ends. It was probably going to go to a free run anyway but this is a speedsock free run with rugged detachable sole that doubles as a basketball sneaker. I am yet to see how weatherproof this rugged second sole is so we can’t call it Techwear but it’s my favourite thing to look at right now.

Matthew Williams pulled something off I don’t think anyone has wrote about. He made Nike and another name brand collab all on his own, we should all know Nike puts out exclusivity contracts for anyone working with them meaning they can’t work with a competing brand but maybe Matthew has found a way to get Alyx to work with Nike.

I have a Vibram blog coming up but they have been getting busy with other industrial sneaker designers and Matthew is one of their main ambassadors with pretty much all his sneakers donning a Vibram second sole. This second sole is rugged chunky and looks almost weatherproof but I like to call these Second Soles City Clip-ons meaning they’re built for inner city walking only and don’t be so certain water won’t fall in the cracks of the innersole of the second sole. Kind of confusing but you get the picture.

The running sneaker or speed sock does not have the Frampton Ellis Barefoot Tech probably to make it easier to clip on to the sole but it is a high top that is slip on with an inner sole zip and shoelaces as a facade or to tighten. Some rugged toe grip and same reinforcement on the heel – and if I know anything about the way the free run is designed that sole is very flat and sticky probably enough for court use.

The detailing on this crep is impressive I love it, just looks sleek and calm to wear on its own with such a simple silhouette as the freeRUN one, it’s Details make it look very technical and methodical all the fabrics and plastics used seem to be for a purpose and and to the fine details and texture of the boot. Which is really reinforced when you add the Vibram sole which I really want a close look at the mould’s details To see what it really does. The mould really adds to the silhouette a different energy you almost look at the boot as an all in one till you take it off and see the speedsock on it’s own

At this point Vibram is really pulling it in the eyes of Techwear crep aficionados like myself thanks to Matthew it is looking nice to me, Nike made a good move not being too precious with the new sneaker silhouettes and allowing the artist to really manipulate them to create a whole different unique style.

This Crep really speaks to Matthews philosophy and to the industrial sneaker trend now style that sleek & simple go with rugged and detailed.


Editors Note

At this point I really just want to jump in and add to this industrial Sneaker style put my name in the hat and make it certified I’ve really got some things cooking but all in due time. I just love what my peers are doing and moving in a direction I like.

This is the way I like to see menswear done being a real style of its own

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

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Spring of the Rookie – Yoon of Ambush

We Go Again,IMG_4813 2

The lady of the season, Yoon hailing from Seattle making waves for Verbal and herself with working for Dior and Nike using the Ambush name and stamping herself as a woman of adornments.

In winning the Bvlgari Avrora inspiring woman award there’s something to think of when thinking about Yoon.IMG_4823

Not just a stunning designer but an innovative mind bringing a partly Japanese aesthetic with an American mentality to business she’s really astounding.

Knowing her from The 3/11 Japanese Tsunami short with Pharrell, I thought they were quite comfortable, fresh and assured of themselves. They started right and steadily with steadily they grew their brand sustainably along side their music in this fusion of culture creativity and total Japanese essence.

Some people take for granted the Japanese as just an anime nation but when you delve deeper it is resilient and powerful that’s what they embody with their glossy neon cloths and outlook for them, with Ambush, they created something they can be more than proud of.

The Dior appointment as head jewellery maker had me for a loop, the well made mechanic art for pre fall had people talking and those accents were hard to stand out on a well made collection of desirable clothes but she matched the intensity with stand out rings and knuckle dusters the collection was well rounded in my opinion

Now the Nike collection as well as their own sneaker made for the people. And the most desirable *jade fur coat (at least I call it jade). The tech pack capsule looks Chique and feminine


Editors Note

I like her because she’s bought something to the table everywhere she’s gone. Heavily merchandisable and creative, it’s hard to be mad at what she’s done for where she’s gone to.

From head of men’s Jewellery at Dior to having 2 trainers with Nike in their 180 silhouette

I’m really excited to see what she does together with verbal and the exploits of the Ambush brand

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

For The Collection of Spring Of The Rookie 

My Rookies

YOON Verbal Ambush: Minimalist Renegade || Sneakers Air Max 180 & Converse

Samuel Ross: 50 Shades of Concrete  ||Sneakers Air Force 1 & Vomero +5

JW Anderson: Ravers in Daytime || Sneakers & Converse

The FOUR Aesthetics of Techwear

We go again

There are many different types of Techwear and after accidentally saving over my Techwear blog I’m here to write it again.

The March of tech, from Adidas, to the style ethos, to the breakdown of the styles. Here it is, techwear style comes in forms people enjoy to play about and buy piece or even change their whole wardrobe for it.

It’s incredibly pricy so the entry point is quite high, the technology is meaningful and the function is useful.

Maybe you can tell why I like it after reading some of my blogs, I have thought deeply into this. And enjoy everything to do with Techwear so far.

It’s not all the way how I dress and if people keep shoving Fear of God down my throat I might have to cough up some money and buy that.

You’re gonna hear Aesthetic a lot because my vocabulary is low and it’s a blog all about aesthetics that are high on the scale and in style.

My industrial sneaker/ chimera garms have not made their way to the main stage but soon. That’s more about pushin the boundaries than style.

Here are the 4 Techwear Aesthetics as I know them

Samurai

There’s a hefty way about people who wear samurai tech bulk and almost mechlike. Blame Errolson Hughes, with a coat that can transform into a backpack there is some really cold ways samurai tech can be done

Ninja

Dark sleek windproof and waterproof, sealed pockets and creative placement. Many Techwear styles stem from wanting ultra functional gear without wanting to carry much. The ninja style to me is the OG of it all Harkening back to Yohji Yamamoto

Sometimes look like they are wrapped tight like running gear and angular somewhat Cubist approach I see vein used when I look at the angles and lines that draw the eye, intentional or not it’s there

Sci Fi

Hidden pockets wrapped invisible zips straps and attentive. The details are immaculate and functions are tantamount.

Some of the colours get crazy like the prestos there’s real colour and pattern there it can get crazy like ACG or got minimal. And all black like [INSERT NAME HERE]

Greyman

There’s an ethos to greyman that’s different for myhe others, those that sport it make it a mission to blend in from plain tees and baseball hats to militant styles cuts and mute colours or complimenting; Maybe even a suit it’s all about blending into your environment.

There’s a Modern approach to so much I see to the Greyman style, I’m okay with minimal function and not too over the top, there’s a comfort factor to that and ability to blend such an aesthetic into your day to day life.

I love the greyman aesthetic because it comes with rules and regulations that maybe won’t be your cup of tea because you wouldn’t be wearing any gear that’s necessarily techy & people won’t even know if you’re a greyman or not. It’s all part of the aesthetic plain and simple


Editors Note

As time progresses Techwear is growing from sports goods to outside attire. Lounge wear like hoodies tracksuits jumpers and such will be known for a casual aesthetic and not this underprivileged brand it holds today.

As we know Hoodies and Loungewear are part of a high fashion catalog, there is no line between poor and rich it’s all becoming what you feel comfortable in. That’s a type of fashion I can agree to

We’re learning more of – Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

Follow my socials Instagram: @nytypical Twitter: @nytypical

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays 

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS  

Techwear insider – What is Techwear

We go Again,

I’ve been wanting to do a techwear blog for a very long time to writ this article and how I’m going to format it. some thing are easier to do than others, and because I’m so conscious about how I perceive tech wear and its infancy I see it evolving every season.

8 times a year there’s an advancement in the clothes manufactured for purpose. Which makes techwear more and more common, so it is not just a small sector of people that understand what it is or where to buy items you have the most common shops and fashion designers making tech items.

as Alyx becomes more and more popular due to their collaborations with Dior and nike the visibility of industrial grade items

What is techwear?

Techwear is an ethos, there are different styles that reside under the techwear banner some more popular than others & incredibly popular in England. Alyx ACW Acronym Gore-Tex & ACG  are very commonplace in the eyes of those who know how they’re dressing.

rugged industrial styles, complex Japanese style jackets zips hidden pockets and creative packaging systems that Erollson Hughs and minimalist style with a somewhat Brutalist/Modern approach to how the clothes are cut and fit.

There are many Techwear enthusiasts that start off with a love for anime and grow to want to dress like their favourite character, people grow up become engineers and have a higher need for utility. This bleeds into the clothes and what they buy.

It used to be just cross country enthusiasts and AT lovers but now Techwear fuses the want for aesthetic and need for great engineering, the best of industrial design as I would have put it.

I understand it as a great branch of menswear but it’s becoming much, much more mainstream with certain items having less functions and more of an aesthetic placement.


Editors Note

I can tell the growth from what we know it as today I s going to be huge and I can’t wait to add my own two cents in.

It’s amazing how much this culture has grown. I can’t wait for it to take over menswear.

We’re learning more of – Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

Follow my socials Instagram: @nytypical Twitter: @nytypical

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays 

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS