The Masterful Clare Waight Keller – Successful British Couturier

Bless up From Your Feet to Your ed top

We go again

The notion I see perpetuated in my fashion circles is, Clare Waight Keller (CWK) failed at Givenchy. I felt that was a bit weird considering how much success she had during the run. Much like Galliano she spent a short while revamping the house while not focusing on Ready To Wear as much and dedicating her time to couture and conceiving a vision of the house for whom she would pass the baton to.

I have my own personal feelings about calling menswear tailoring couture but she spent a great deal of time catering to enhancing the vision of the Givenchy man, one which Matthew Williams will inherit.

Chadwick Boseman in Givenchy Couture

Clare Waight Keller and Mens Couture

After growing so much clientele for menswear CWK emboldened the Nouveau riche to explore the detailing and embroidery women are accustomed to in couture. Such is the growing ideas of Kim Jones at Couture with his past collections with Dior, exceptionally so with his AW20/21 – as he took a nod to Judy Blame, from Marc Bohan.

The intricacies in the work she was attempting to execute for the haute couture was to reinstate a new vision to the eyes of the men who could afford as a long stretch away from Ricardo Tisci graphics work with Rottweilers and Sharks.

The ideas presented were such supposed to be art creating a clientele and inspiration to anyone who would come after allowing one Vision to marry with the next truly passing the baton not just for couture but also for ready to wear as Galliano did for McQueen prior.

Men Dressed in Clare Waight Keller Givenchy

Most of all the idea that there was supposed to be a high focus of sales at Givenchy when for couture that’s never the case it’s creating clientele for the atelier on 3 Avenue George V – if that agenda can be used on Galliano for McQueen, so rightly so it could be used here.

Clare Waight Keller- Money Moves

I’ve taken special consideration to this case especially since Clare has created 2 power house moves in her career, at Pringle and Chloe the narrative is the same, she had a ball of a time creating looks for women to buy in ready to wear reviving a house and selling tremendously. Taking Pringle to a global brand and having Chloe be at $400M in sales the year she left. Both houses, healthy condition, and profitable.

It only stands to reason if her purpose was Ready-To-Wear she would have a 3 peat, instead it was creating couture fit for clientele at the atelier and by my account needed help. She happened to get the greatest press hits for Givenchy 1) as the men she dressed were cited being best dressed in those years, which for the uninitiated brings more hype to Givenchy for them to buy it. 2) She created the Duchess of Sussex Wedding Dress.

Clare Waight Keller Dressing a Princess

Being a royal dressmaker is a star for any fashion designer, here it’s no different. Givenchy is known for dressing Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy but no Princess wedding dresses. The point being made is this bought an esteem to the house that no even the name sake could bring, often times the narrative being spouted isn’t as such a pure one as in this case when we reflect on Clares success it is a crowning achievement in Fashion history and the houses history. If she had only done that, it is a job well done.

Did Clare Waight Keller flop around Givenchy? No

The value of CWK is there and her stats are up on the scoreboard, we can fudge the numbers or look at it with a clear perspective. She did what she was supposed to do and left.

  • Did she give a new identity to menswear
  • Did she put Givenchy in the press as a slick Nouveau riche house
  • Dis she make something for other little princesses to aspire to
  • is her foundation profitability

Answers to all of that is yes. Now she’s moved on and so shall we.

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

Follow my socials Instagram: @nytypical Twitter: @nytypical

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS  

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays 

 On My series work

Spring Of The Rookie

Sickle Cell Companion

Owning Your Own Ship

Clare Waight Keller: Pretty, Cool

https://www.wsj.com/articles/designing-beyond-chloe-inside-clare-waight-kellers-parisian-home-1459180397

EXCLUSIVE: Givenchy Confirms Clare Waight Keller as Next Couturier

https://www.gq.com/story/givenchy-clare-waight-keller-split

A Thought on: Being Unabashed

Bless up from your feet to your head top

We go again

Being unabashed is something that took a lot of energy from me. 2015 I was educating myself on what it meant to be black in the west, these wasp areas. I was running a business with a non PoC friend of mine and during my education he was frightened at the people that I would listen to because he had this idea of the world that he didn’t know wasn’t true for me, inevitably we parted ways.

Today I have so many new people that are proud to listen to me talk about European designers, when I talk about my Black LGBTQ and ethnic fam the pride isn’t so loud.

No matter what, my references are going to be different because I lived differently and I must be unabashed about it. My idea of beauty has a European sentiment but doesn’t derive from European values, therefore when I create it’s not injecting myself into areas that doesn’t believe me it’s expressing myself to people that know what I’m talking bout. And at times that doesn’t include my European listeners because our references aren’t the same.

I grew up naturally listening to and reviewing white history, leaving out all the black artists, yet suddenly in seeing the black art I instantly knew the references and that’s with my whole spirit, that being said understanding my references isn’t something I’m here to teach but in following me by osmosis you can possibly inherit if you are open to taking it in, and possibly we might get somewhere in this life and I won’t have to acquiesce and being unabashed won’t be a struggle.

The Mowalola Maven – Her Five Supermodels “The Mowalola Girl” A confident Punk Rocker

Bless up from your feet to your ed top

We go again

I wrote an article years ago now detailing how there was a need for black models. More highly supermodels. Many months ago I came to the conclusion that there needs to be a nurturing system in place to platform these women and cultivate their talents across the board, from perfume and commercial campaigns to editorial and more exclusive contracts, demanding a high price.

Like I said in my previous article it has nothing to do with Naomi she’s a queen and must get her coin however I also have the understanding that I can name black models by name Adut, Aweng, Anok, Imman Duckie are all on my list and I understand their needs to exist. The increase even in Darkskin models is lovely, can still name them all. Nothing wrong with that and I’m not even saying I want to see more of them in European shows what I am saying though is if having Afrocentric models was an intrinsic part of the process it wouldn’t be a sprinkle it would be people that I have never seen before and not the same high profile names walking the shows.

https://www.instagram.com/detoblack/
https://www.instagram.com/chivirgo/
https://www.instagram.com/igbospice/
https://www.instagram.com/amkmq.art/
https://www.instagram.com/mvxxx/

I do want to shout out @fewmodels and @modelsofcolour for sharing and cultivating runway talent. It’s important that there are agencies that care for their model’s looks and regimented needs. All important parts of the process in fostering growth in these young talents.

What Mowalola is doing though. The reason people call her #mummylola is she’s giving us reason to gage the importance of representation and the quality that is out there. Her girls are in any event from obscurity, obvious models with IT! she is giving to us is the formulae (which I won’t spill too much of) – to exhibit a style character and face to what you would consider the face of a house.

Representation matters and spaces matter a space where people can be free of the eye of critics and live as they are as well as be placed in the open unabashed and unashamed, never feeling the need to shrink themselves to fit in. Representation plainly should be an intrinsic part of the performance from the top down and Mowalola is doing that.

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

Follow my socials Instagram: @nytypical Twitter: @nytypical

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS  

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays 

 On My series work

Spring Of The Rookie

Sickle Cell Companion

Owning Your Own Ship