A Diary of Silver linings: why I’m a creator you follow

Bless up from your feet to your head top

We go again,

Last year I wrote a book, not many people know I have a book, but I told myself henceforth I will share it so whoever needs it can see it. I have a growing voice in fashion and much of my writing is not fashion related, obscure to me but that’s the world I live in and how my life is.

Melancholy Maelstrom, Available on All platforms

Here’s my first book, I want to say, this book is unlike any of my other works, born of pain an anguish of a failed system I hope to change. Nothing to do with fashion and more to do with real life. I wrote this book before all of the troubles of last year and how there’s a silver lining to everything. Once you see it, seize it capture it and Burst it Open so the light it brings shines on everyone in your space. That’s what this book is about

Last year my people were dying on the streets, there were so many points where I saw the pain and suffering reflected in the people in the work I produced. I decided not to share my work because my words in the moment meant more than the words I had written, even though it was months apart.

There were times when I was asked in the moment to make fashion videos, I had created a show that was unlike any before it and meant so much to the community who were exposed to it. My spirit really said I should not do no productions because people in the streets, me being in the streets was more important than fashion.

I am not for your consumption

Janelle Monet, via Taurus

There were moments that were necessary for others to escape that I could provide but it wasn’t in me to help people escape, I needed to live in the moment as a human just like everyone else and that needed to be respected because there were voices that I needed to listen to and I needed others to hear.

In America from Kobe and Pop Smoke, to Ahmaud Arbery, to the Lekki tollgate massacre 2020 did not let up I made the decision to live in it. Covid made sure we stewed in it, how could a man like me, raised by the people create an escape. I didn’t see it, if it was my job to do that I’m sorry.

My business took a hit because of and now I’m here again asking for peace, patience and guidance to work up again in the eyes of the people from this site and those that follow me.

My existence is not for your consumption, my work is. We are tied, but I was tired. I’m due to show up and show everyone again, why I am a creator you follow

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

If you want to donate to help out this growing platform all patronage is welcome https://www.paypal.me/DYusuff

Engage with my socials

Instagram: @nytypical

Twitter: @arahofnyt

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays

 On My series work

Spring Of The Rookie

Sickle Cell Companion

The Fickle Fantasy of the Avant- Whore

Identity is a real intriguing thing. We date based around it whether its religion and race or gender. But theres this one part of identity i find almost riveting in a certain way but also repugnant in others. That would be the Dating because you wear a certain type of clothes. Akin to dating people for listening to a certain type of music.

Beauty of Artisanal Wear

This is how riveting this is there are people who find a clothing brand and relate to the person who makes the clothes so much; feel the person is telling their story (much like a musician) and wear that persons clothes for the rest of their lives, better still they will only wear this person. I can only imagine what that is like, to want to wear someones designs for the rest of their lives. To feel what this person who has made these clothes have felt, when you touch the clothes you see where they’re coming from, when you wear them you walk in their shoes almost, or the shoes of the person they’re inventing is projecting; possibly kind of euphoric.

Bastardisation of Fashion Houses

The repugnancy of it all is deep and complicated and very precise. Let me explain. In the era I grew up in theres a thing going on, I don’t know whether this has always happened though, there are men, them and women out here who went through phases of dress from department store, school clothes, etc, landing themselves at the discovery of european fashion designers one way or the other and determined this was the upper echelon of dress.

I myself went through phases where i didn’t want to dress like everyone else but wasn’t trying to impress with a name but with my style, wearing particular items together in a way that made me feel good, unique, stylish.

I don’t feel the same energy, what I sense is the discovery of a cult following that has been going on for a few decades now and believing this is the greatest thing a friendship group doesn’t know about, this concerns, Margiela, CDG, Ann D, CCP and the favourite few names of this class. This discovery has led to many new ways of being, the rabid variety, who will bite your head off for not knowing who the designer they worship is, or worse still look down on you for not knowing who their cult leader is, which is the more sheepish part of the personality. They feel it is any different from people who lord Chanel, Gucci, or Louis Vuitton. Where its just the same thing with little known designers from that era.

The Facetious Fashion Industry

I found it terrifying hilarious that there are young guys out there that went through a “phase” of wearing “hyped” clothes as they would put it, – didn’t grow out of it – and ended up pushing the mentality of ‘I have this I am better than you’ on European and Japanese etc. high-priced clothes

I will like to say high fashion is not equal to European made clothes

nor is high fashion a high priced item.

as these “luxury”/Heritage houses have taught us, they have devolved luxury to what the name will bring you socially, which is status and approval from those who approve of your status through your clothes. That their clothes aren’t synonymous with well travelled and artisanally made wears and licenses.

This mindset though has travelled to the mind of the youth who know nothing about well made history of the house. But equate name and brand to the clothes and luxury to the price tag.

All together has made for a diluted system of people who believe hard work in marketing means your clothing brand can be successful and automatically luxury with whose body you’re able to get it on.

The Fictitious Fickle Fantasy of Youth

The Era of clout and trolls has given rise to what I like to call the Avant-Whore a person who uses the same issue with Hype beasts and adds it to the Anti-fashion or more artisanal houses. But has more sensibilities and possibly more knowledge, like a true fashion elitist would.

I have seen Men go from streetwear, a very calm genre of wears on its own, to saying they outgrow it and deciding now it must be only wear [insert off the beat and path designer] clothes. Perfectly fine on its own but the projection of the insecurity comes in when they feel their friends need to be what they’re on, vying for more validity. Or thinking their friends in the click are less acquainted with what “real fashion” is do to their styling or buying choices.

My further analysis, because these people have the power of elitist who also wear the same clothes , the cult followers who buy and trade, and the true fans who will support the designer(s)in question no matter what. This person will decide based on their new attire that they will only date people who dress as they are, as if it were some status symbol or new level of elitism the acquired.

all due to the fact they’re near – people who love it, for their personal desires, or people write on it – they feel an allure of to talk and act mightier than thou. More Accepted than anyone else, more in the know than anyone else.

Enough to project it onto a partner that fashion is their life and if someone else they’re talking to isn’t deep in fashion as well then theres nothing to talk about.

I find it concerning that this thought process even exists, and just thought provoking that there are young people that think like this. I even know there are older people who think this way enough to give fearless kids to take it a step further and project this mindset onto the people outside fashion because those are the people who have less knowledge of fashion than they do.

All in its disconcerting people roam the world thinking this way, as a writing topic and someone who has deeply studied Behavioural psychology and Sociology its a riveting subject to talk about, but as someone who is in fashion and has a high level of fashion knowledge and can’t be effected by these people, I wonder how it is effecting the people who don’t have a good defence on it and are made to feel this way by the shoal of fashion.

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

If you want to donate to help out this growing platform all patronage is welcome https://www.paypal.me/DYusuff

Follow my socials Instagram: @NYTypical Twitter: @ARAHofNYT

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS  

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays 

 On My series work

Spring Of The Rookie

Sickle Cell Companion

Spring of The Rookie: Virgil Abloh – Urban Industrial Maverick

Bless up from Your Feet to Your Head top

We Go Again

This is Virgil. Chicago born designer who rose to the top of luxury in a toxic streetwear climate. With zero “school pedigree” as his detractors would like to point out Virgil became the designer for the unspoken for man designing for the people he loves taking all his references from Streetwear, road uniform, Chicago, skate culture, hip hop, New York, street fashion and meme culture.

The third and final rookie is Virgil because he is the first in modern history to achieve what he achieved in the way he did it as part of a few men of colour who rose to the top of luxury and one of the first to be at the top of another’s house with no degree in fashion a Kanye philosophy which allowed maybe not the man himself but one of his closest disciples & collaborators to be the most visible designer of that aesthetic. So much so he came out of Kanye’s shadow which is a big shadow and possibly his biggest accomplishment.

Virgil using his patented design philosophy to create furniture fashion, footwear and fine art. Starting from a humble engineering student to architecture part 2 student, Kanye Designer, Fendi intern, to owning his own labels Been Trill Pyrex and Off White all culminating in him being the most exposed designer on the planet with Nike using his design language to create pieces without him; a bastardised form of streetwear sprouting it’s wings forming houses we could or could not have done with.

Being in part why I think so many people criticise Virgil so harshly mainly because his work isn’t possibly understood fully and streetwear seen as a black art form on top of that the fruits of his tree, every designer has fruit from their tree and design philosophy especially if it’s expansive enough it can bring about some really inspired work. However what people take from Virgil’s work is irony and crude mimicry, what can anyone do about that but criticise his lack of clarity and say the direction he is going in isn’t worth exploration. All being wrong points of view, to dash someone with a wealth of experience, the bun in the oven isn’t done – and what we have to do is wait for the bird to find its wings.

There are points in which Virgil deserves criticism and vitriol, his lack of cultural awareness for 1) and for 2) his inability to take control and responsibility for what he has been given. Virgil at the height of off white decided to sell a controlling interest in his company to New Guards group. At the height of Off White, he decided to sell a majority stake, to people who aren’t for whatever culture he says he represents. This support and cash flow can be said to dilute the brand as what they have for sale are dried up designs.

Again his lack of cultural awareness had him steal from young designers, young black designers at that. Fair few designers e has taken from have been black designers, no remorse, no job given no credit. This is the way of many big fashion houses, so it is no big surprise that they steal peoples work. What I am surprised at is, the staff at both companies where he is Creative director (CD) are built up of majority white employ.

He can’t control who works at Louis Vuitton (LV) but the part of his corporation he has control over he has no efficacy to make them of his culture he so says is his own. So in effect, he steals from his own culture to give to LVMH and New Guards group. This is something people don’t talk about enough but it is a point of contention for me as it comes to criticism of Virgil and I think about it often. This is the conversation that needs to be had in terms of what we consider proper criticism of Virgil

In Virgil’s recent collections, he is displaying a growth that’s different from his earlier collections and if the trajectory stays the same aside from what everyone has said with conviction and fever the design language will flourish and breed the real inspiration for new designers that criticisers seek. The design language sprout that I see is intrinsically ties to him and his references and respectfully is unlikely display of beauty from his dresses to his tailoring.

This new design language Urban Industrial Lux he has created the trainers and bags to me are the star the true utilities made beautiful and you see a true effort to accentuate harmony of engineering and aestheticism while having control of the chic appeal of the accessories and even the clothes creating luxurious pieces only able to be revealed from his mind.

Further still his eye for patterns and creation of texture in his industrial design, of bags, suitcases and clothes. What Virgil excels at is delivering high level textures and bag/case design in a multitude of forms, I will always point to the 2054 collection  which spoke so much to his ability to create at a high level given the reigns and allowed to explore his strength when it comes to patterns, industrial design, set design and the sort.

His trainers have been so influential even though none of them are original they speak to his main audience and are important to his sensibilities as a designer creating a streak of winners that continue to be hype, in my eyes hype is a picture of accessibility to the people. Every artist strives towards being thought of as the best while being themselves but rarely any will make it so many stay with the understanding they can capture an audience.

As Virgil becomes a mainstay in fashion creating more season hopefully better and more wholistic towards his true inspiration I see him passing the torch too many more designers, whether he likes it or not- or i like it or not- he inspires many black youths to do what he has done.  What the fashion industry is talking about they could care less on so the great things he is doing can only be highlighted. My reality on Virgil is whatever he does next is of his own volition

This is my Rookie Virgil

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

If you want to donate to help out this growing platform all patronage is welcome https://www.paypal.me/DYusuff

Follow my socials Instagram: @NYTypical Twitter: @ARAHofNYT

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS  

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays 

 On My series work

Spring Of The Rookie

Sickle Cell Companion