Dynamism of New Bottega |Bottega Veneta Flashy designs under Daniel Lee

bless up from your feet to your head top

we go again,

Daniel Lee’s Bottega Veneta is a lesson in creating a look without saying you’re creating a look.

It was fun to say Bottega is doing this and that. As in being hidden with the logos and not having ads and not paying influencers etc etc.. for a while. Bottega is known for being a stealthy brand that us seen and not heard, however under daniel lee, it was both for the full tenure in a head line or celebrity post constantly.

Daniel lee created collection after collection built with an aesthetic and an expressionist brush, as he sees it.

After the pandemic, (if there is even such a thing) Daniel Lee gave us the biggest post-pandemic vibes with FALL 2021 RTW. this latest collection. Creating a Bottega in his own image. A loud and experimental decision that paid in visibility.

Looking closely at the tapestry he is building he is seen to create a design language of expressionism in his designs. Giving us something new, with Bottega we are under the presupposition it has the foundation of minimalism, pushing the feeling of luxury and craftsmanship. What we see with Daniel Lee’s design is a progression I’m seeing with his ready to wear collections as one in all a continuity of storytelling that is telling a story that doesn’t live under the presupposition when we see Bottega Veneta. First I thought it was just the bags.  And him creating an ‘IT-BAG’ then I was like… that’s weird… that’s suspicious. Bottega bags aren’t supposed to be loud or ostentatious, in two minds, seeing him pushing the intrecciato to the extreme at the same time, is this Bottega.

Now let us think… the point of the ‘IT-BAG’ is for it to let you know it exists. Bottega prides itself on not having a logo using its masterful leather work do the talking – Italian excellence as per. Okay Daniel Lee Bags are doing that, it’s very clear, yet it’s an ‘IT BAG’ – (what a cool revelation) – it almost sounds oxymoronic to say a Bottega bag is an IT BAG when the definition endears itself to everyone knowing it exists. Then you look at the Bottega GREEN the most loud and clear sign of Bottega and we see the “New Bottega” ads, all these would not mean all that much if it wasn’t the phrase, ‘pride itself on fitting seamlessly into the owner’s wardrobe’ and the Bottega bags TODAY are loud statement items that are now IT BAGS which also translate to the 2001 definition of letting everyone knows it exists. 

The techniques are such today you can do so much with the intrecciato technique that it can be the most bold statement in fashion today winning awards, and every write up calling it an IT BAG, the design distinction doesn’t just stay there it also is prevalent in the ready-to-wear. Being a product of its times translating into today’s aesthetic of design which gets little to no awareness. It isn’t even a product of Phoebe Philo school of design. It’s a whole new schema using Italian futurism and likening itself to the Neo Futurism of today sensual lines and appealing details. An Art-Deco design aesthetic that is grandiose lets you know it’s here from a company that people are constantly writing about it’s minimalism.

The next thing everyone with sense will say is minimal isn’t simple designs they’re stripped down. Well, I’m counting multiple design elements that speak to New Bottega’s eccentricity, aesthetic and expressionism. The colours and silhouettes are inventive, renovating the shapes we can see today and adding a colourful lens to it. 

Bottega Veneta today expresses a culture of feeling possible futurism (looking directly at the colours) and the angular nature of the constructive elements of these garments. True Italian Vetement – boldly executed under the guise of minimalism… texture – colour – fit – cut all considerations in cultivating this “New Bottega” – seriously, people keep speaking about minimalism and post-pandemic woes and Daniel Lee for the past several years has been delivering a direct execution of expressionist art-deco of his making and futurism with an Italian artisan flare and intuitive style lines.

I can picture Daniel Lee staring at Umberto Boccioni  – ‘FUTURISTIC MAN’ – Forms Uniche Della Continuità Nello Spazio (Unique forms of continuity in space). The dynamism of a car but make it fashion, make it Neo-Futurist make it Bottega. I see the aerodynamic we will see in space-age mid-century architecture, function isn’t without beauty. 

The relevance of the 1930’s Aero DYNAMIC vehicles I can speak to the puddle boot directly taking reference from works like streamline KJ Henderson motorcycle. You can pull a car from that era and see the gratifying expression of sensual lines in the puddle boot giving it a distinctive not like the other designs today. That GT (Grand Tourer) vibe.

I am talking about the bags and the ready-to-wear in the same breath. Daniel lee’s design language indicates and expresses the need for futurism ‘In the Hardest of Times, it is important to still dream’ Daniel Lee said that, fathoming what he meant in terms of expression and futurism puts the aptest lens on the ‘so-called’ minimalist brands’ Bottega Veneta’s DNA.

This thorough direction gave me time to ruminate on why possibly Daniel Lee would execute this. Chewing on these ideas and design sentiment is one thing. The latitude to execute on design principles like these while the rules of the house stipulate a more stealthier approach, all that is left is conjecture at this point. Daniel lee’s tenure is over and his work is in a capsule, the reason for the mutual parting is in the air. The question I am readily asking is, with a stealth wealth, conspicuous consumption house like bottega why are the designs so loud, to me mixed messages were sent when being the most talked-about creative house – in Italy and being a leader in Kering’s top 3 Gucci Balenciaga and Bottega – why delete your social media. And digital footprint. Regardless of all that Bottega is still popular amongst Americas Hip-Hop Millionaires, and Nouveau Riche. There’s a complicated relationship with the consumer Bottega needs to control or go with. Changing with the times or sticking to your guns.

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

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Reference articles

How Bottega Veneta became the most hyped brand of 2019
History of Intrecciato from Bottega Veneta – PURSE BLOG
Daniel lee wiki
ALL BOTTEGA VENETA COLLECTIONS – vogue runway
BOTTEGA HISTORY -PRET A VOI
Fashion Awards 2019: The full winners list- vogue Australia
BOTTEGA VENETA 101: A HISTORY – rebag 
THE BOTTEGA VENETA BIBLE – vintage bar
BOTTEGA VENETA -CATWALK YOURSELF
STEALTH WEALTH A SPOTTERS GUIDE – NEWS WEEK
Is It No Longer Cool To Look Rich? -READ A
Bottega Veneta Launches Fall-Winter 2011/2012 Advertising Campaign
Advertising, Fall/Winter 2002. Photography by Robin Broadbent.

An Intro Matthew Alyx William – The man behind the LA company creating my favourite accessories. (Chest Rig and Buckle)

We Go Again.

Matthew Williams named his company after his son Alyx, which doesn’t make you swoon if you are a lover of tech this will.

He made the OG Chest Rig Bag. To me, he is the one and only progenitor of great design and has a solid industrial mind. The chest Rig isn’t only my favourite item to wear it is the favourite thing I’ve owned in the past so long, I never knew I needed it till I had it.

The size of an iPad (about 12″) the chest Rig fits my sketchbook iPad and charger so it’s volumetric also. It’s a cornerstone of my outfits and industrial wear, although it’s still new the industrial part of fashion is coming in slowly putting utility and design at the forefront.

You see Alyx trying so many new and amazing things on the wear along with their vibram collaboration Alyx have also teamed with Nike and Dior; I would love to see them collaborate with gore-tex and Male something out of the norm.

The most significant item being the buckle, going for upwards of £200 it really making its mark on the fashion lovers the leader of the industrial market; My home. Alyx is among the likes of A Cold Wall and Acronym — The triple A’s make the futurist industrial design and utilitarian look go far.

Matthew is doing good works for reinventing the buckle in such an industrious way and I just wanted to not someone whom I deem as doing real artist work really fusing the two.

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Not Your Typical

An intro to Erollson Hughes Acronym

We go again,

The guy behind Nike ACG menswear and what the streets would call the AF1 Abomination and the great redeemer Acronym Presto and what I will call the father of origami jackets. Errolson Hughs

Who is Acronym?

acronym-fw-1516-15

Acronym started out as a contract design firm who made their seed money designing gear for extreme sports and branched our to a personal design company in 1999 to make their own gear developed in house. 2002 Acronym was set on to the scene making products for years before cross pollination.

With their outerwear aesthetic Michaela and Errolson have been slowly building a credible brand who has an amazing aesthetic with prices not for the light pocketed. Kickass code names and well made app areal for those who are really out here appreciating the samurai Techwear look

Industrial Techwear

The ideal behind these pieces are just so incredible. I’m a lover of industrial design and will continue to analyse and adore the creation fabric and contortion of materials. Learning all about plastics and how they can be moulded into becoming weather proof is something I hold in high regard; each thing being made out of plastic but the polymer constitution changes its properties.

Nike ACG

IMG_4022

What I know Errolson for the most for is the Nike ACG collaboration before I knew any details I saw him in the most well constructed garments I’ve seen made for a man. The ACG collaborations with Nike have been the most creative thing industrially I think Johanna has something to do with why this — spawning the morphing of the AirMax 180 and 270 for people to create their own versions (more of my thoughts on this later). — The well constructed garments are a wonder to look at the sliding pockets shell form zips Male the silhouettes minimal but are made with the most complex techniques. Whoever has been steering this Techwear ship at Nike in the past 3/4 years well done.

Air Force 1 and Presto

The sneakers have been a contentious for the AF1 the Acronym team kind of destroyed the detailing and added a zipper but it slowly became a grailed Force one. The Presto though, straight away it was loved and adored from my purview and grew as a cornerstone of Techwear functional technical and full of utility.


Editors Note

Errolson Hugh’s has had a great team around him all the way through forged their own path and created a 20 year old company with such a high value now I adore the ability to make something of that level.

The Renaissance of Techwear is here and soon will be the most prominent form of menswear design due to its technical construction

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Not Your Typical