Spring of the Rookie: JW Anderson, Ravers in the Street

Spring of The Rookie… We Go Again

In spring of the rookie I explore all the fashion designers whose aesthetic were forced into my periphery by way of osmosis.

Just as I stumble on new music is the same way new designers make it into my lense, creating intrigue to me usually with their first season.

JW Anderson was a different story, i first found out about him through his marketing campaigns with fashion websites and influencers, the signature turtleneck with the big O as an example for this year where he was really in center stage with the Stylist on Instagram from Korea to North America I was amazed to see the amount of people wearing what he has to offer with all the knitwear and woollens he provided.

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I was put onto JW Anderson as one to watch in 2016 and you hear a couple things here and there and in 2017 when I thought up my first collection was when it made sense why he was one to watch for menswear.

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What he does with form and silhouettes with the contemporary style luxuriant comfort big bulky and well made come to mind when describing this recent season I have seen.

Takin a look back to pre 2054 I really understood the draw by the industry because there is this hint of fusion or melding of men’s and womenswear, I saw the trend around that time and took no lead from it but to see what it inspired before menswear became more black culture orientated it was kind of a “pioneering” step for contemporary. Not saying people haven’t tried before it’s just that this is the time it worked

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Then we go to the business side I spoke about the marketing and e-commerce and merchandising of the garments, come to find out Jonathan has a CEO. Now this is a major major thing to me because I see creatives as a business idea, which needs a CEO to run the business and Creative to run the Ethos just like in Silicon Valley.

Jonathan is done what I see as the future in real time which happened when it was just a spark of an idea back when I was still figuring everything out in University. Something so American coming from a British Designer making sure he’s successful as a business and a designer.

What an amazing tale of ingenuity and creative flare. Not just clothes but an infrastructure, it’s a fools tale to call him a rookie but compared to where I see him heading considering he’s been thinking so forward from early, I would not call it a stretch to say JW Anderson will become an institution

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

For The Collection of Spring Of The Rookie 

My Rookies

YOON Verbal Ambush: Minimalist Renegade || Sneakers Air Max 180 & Converse

Samuel Ross: 50 Shades of Concrete  ||Sneakers Air Force 1 & Vomero +5

JW Anderson: Ravers in Daytime || Sneakers & Converse

SOTR — Sneakers (Sneaker Sunday) : A Cold Wall Nike — Air Force 1 and Vomero +5 SP

Spring of The Rookie, We go again

The a cold wall range is not heavily merchandisable in my eyes which is why I see the Nike’s as a fun experiment.

A cold wall is an ethos which means it lives through mediums rather than being a medium.

Taking in that I see the experiment with the classical cross society sneakers by Nike, and at the experimental feel.

Air Force 1

I see Air Force 1 as a test to see if you can make it art, it’s already a staple but can you make it a staple to a subset. The patent leather framework was broken down and reappropriated as a piece of work that’s is used to sell and resell as part of the sneaker stock market.

Usually Air Force 1’s are edited and curated but these are kept, much like the Yeezys and Off Whites making them dirty and changing them in anyway causes disruption to the price.

Or should it? Using the ACW* AF1 might very well be part of the score, having them used and recycled shared much like a house or the stone used to make it. Makes sense to me, but the deeper understanding of ACW* might not be part of the Zeitgeist or heartbeat of the subsection of the culture it speaks to.

Apart from that the play on texture on the back panel and the imprint of the swoosh is

Nike Vomero +5

From review sources I have been told they are very light and comfortable trainer. The block is very light and superficial

The OG Vomero SP are Just as a running shoe should be, The pattern harkens back to an age of sneakers pre dad shoe even. When sport was the goal. The true sport Trainer.

What Samuel Ross done for it was make the silhouette something distinguishable from the SP a not so subtle thing that adds and says look at me a quite ornate thing to do in design especially when the AF1 was a take away process, take away the laces, take away from the texture. I see it as a detail of interior 90’s design when they would paint the wall add a roughcast texture to a wall for no reason. To be frank I enjoy the meme where someone charges their phone with the Vomero or is it the Puma?

When you look at the detailing I see about 3 or 4 subtle colour notes on the black 3 different blacks 2 greys and 5 different types of polymers. In the white the same but white the red is more mute in it than the SP more like a burgundy


I like Samuel Ross approach to *life. He’s built up a community of his own and does things for an ethos of a cross section of people that doesn’t speak to race but ethics and politics

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

For The Collection of Spring Of The Rookie 

My Rookies

YOON Verbal Ambush: Minimalist Renegade || Sneakers Air Max 180 & Converse

Samuel Ross: 50 Shades of Concrete  ||Sneakers Air Force 1 & Vomero +5

JW Anderson: Ravers in Daytime || Sneakers & Converse

A Dialogue On: Industrial Sneaker Revolution- The turn menswear sneakers are taking for greater versatility

We go again

I have been teasing this a lot the style the codes the creative license some men are taking with sneaker design and sneaker creation and I’m an appreciate the trying.

The trying is the best thing that can happen, the advent of the Dad shoe was a style trend but I See the industrial trainer as somewhat of a motif of overall dress and philosophy in style taking its “roots” from techwear but it’s more than “techwear” it’s a way of wanting more from what people have given you in clothes.

It’s not about secret pockets and zips and looking like a ninja but having things that are well built made to last and created with use in mind.

First thing what is the Industrial sneaker?

It seems to have 3 foundational style details

  1. Barefoot technology
  2. multiple materials
  3. Breathable fabric/ multiple materials

It seems like it takes on these things from techwear per-say but with the chunkiness of the dad shoe and utility of the sole it’s a style that’s neither dad shoe nor techwear shoe.

The Foundational Trainers

Acronym Presto

The holy grail of techwear trainers the presto was made with a certain amount of utility in mind and with the colours it delivers a collaboration of style and tech to pull it off in the right way

Its not just about the colours it’s the way it’s made and Materials Acronym chose to use to make it out of, new textile technology gives us more versatile clothing better fits and a multitude of decisions can be made in conference.

This trainer was created for city use mostly as gets pointed out to me by the small sole and unsteady mid so the roll cage might come in handy when rolling your foot doing an exercise

Yeezy 500

A hallmark of comfort and style this chunky trainer with 120 % boost technology and Frampton Ellis barefoot tech make this one of the most comfortable shoes on the market

With soles made for stepping in a concrete environment it seemingly protects your foot from injury and it is said definitely the most comfortable trainers you can wear with a bunion by Charlemagne the god.

I love the technology but it’s a full dad shoe no matter how light and the chunkiness is congruent without style, sometimes less is more as in the silhouette is purposely chunky and doesn’t need to be. but its a piece to what we will now see is better trainer tech. you’ll see it in the young, falcon, disruptors, and other sneakers on the market today.

Y-3 QASA

The QASA the Og, of OG tech sneakers got everything it can in lightweight tech and comfort, an amazing silhouette and I classify it as a grail. Material base is the runner technology, while boost didn’t exist yet it has Barefoot tech to hold it down.

a main focus of the tech used is how the ankle heel and top of the foot are strapped down. New trainers take heed as everything here serves a purpose and material choices were conscious.

Its not like the QASA is a foundational trainer on the market everyone can grab and at its price point even if it was still on the market not everyone can have it, with the advent of boost technology the guts of the sole is rendered obsolete and due for a tune up.

That being said this trainer is stated as a foundation in tech wear and a most creative sneaker design. ahead of its time looking back

The Present and The Future

What happens when you take what is seen as the founding principles of comfort and quality masculine design.

You get sneakers that are unlike others we have seen before. But bring all we know together, you give a couple foundational principles of what was known to work and create what we see before us.

Rugged sneaker design based on comfort and ergonomics. But will give the aura that this was built for something, to wear, to style to use, BUILT FOR PURPOSE.

Stripped down or built up what was once known as an overload of the senses has become a styling statement

The things we want to wear on our feet changes the playing field of what designers have to look for and the way designers think

What men desire is more than just a simple elegant linear design. As I was saying in A dialogue on design is setting the president in sneaker culture.

The foundation of all men’s dress start at the feet. When the desire for what we want to wear on our feet changes so will our clothing style. And an opportunity for menswear to evolve into what I see it turning into already.

Where is that evolution find out more on my blog 2 Design Trends that you need to understand in 2019

I have tonnes of time for this topic and I am giving it to you, Inch by inch, the industrial sneaker revolution is now, as soon as I peeped game I just had to share it.

We’re learning more of – Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

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