Spring of The Rookie Kiko Kostadinov – The way of the Dark Stallion

Bless up from your feet to your head top

We go again

I first encountered Kiko after his SS18 collection but in 2019 I wasn’t sure if I was late or early to the party but I was sure he was doing the right thing. This relative unknown then became the dark horse in the race to evolve menswear.

Kiko and his ASICS collab have had him in the sights of many men in fashion wanting more from him and wanting well of him, he seems to provoke in men what Chanel was said to have provoked in women back in her day. We see Kiko garner the attention of men all over wanting the uniform of ‘a man’, this really interests me as I have been working on my menswear thesis for quite some time Kiko seems to design in alignment to some of my brief. And as a relatively new and fairly obscure designer it seems he has a formula to bring more men into fashion.

This is why he is part of the Spring of the Rookie, I pick my rookies due to years in the game, Kiko Debut in 2017 and if you aren’t looking for him you may not find him but much like Sam Ross I feel his vigour and his energy is oxygen to the flame of the new Menswear ethos. Reason being you see Kiko here, I enjoy being on the right side of history and this man is my second gamble he may become a pillar of the community or a slab that lay the foundation this is my lot to say the former. I see him as someone that can grow into potentially one of the top designers of our generation given time and guidance

Kiko began his journey in Belgium of all places moving to the U.K. as a teen and going to Central Saint Martins. Already his story is quite interesting as an immigrant coming to London to study fashion is nary a thing you hear of, the creative arts is something that’s feared by immigrant families because its nature is due to a gamble not everyone is here to make it. My guess is Kiko bet on himself enough to get the funds to educate himself in fashion, as hard as it may be he done it as a man. I rarely hear stories of people coming to the U.K. to make it in Creative industries let alone business these stories are usually reserved for America. I believe this start is what draws certain men to Kiko that understanding of someone who decided to go for his dream and achieve it in a land he didn’t know. Whether he will stay here due to the U.K. laws on art and entrepreneurship, that’s a conversation for a different day. Kiko is here and men love him right now.

As a designer Kiko Kostadinov focuses highly on tailoring using his eye for utility his garments are very structured and he seems to challenge himself pushing the way he references and the kind of garments he constructs. The type of shapes and patterns he uses as details remind me of 70’s Abstract Modernism work, found in his beloved Belgium maybe Thomas Kapsalis morso Karel Maes if I do say so myself the shapes and colours certainly do seem inspired in that direction and that to me has me tip my hat of to him as someone drawing from his home and creating work that is representative of all things that are him.

Functionally his clothes seem to focus heavily on masculine aesthetic shows me so much about himself, his ethos certainly shows itself through his clothes and it is fair to say he enjoys his work. He seems to consider so much from his references in art to the designers and film. He doesn’t romanticise men but sees them how they are and enjoys being one, if that is an honest turn of phrase. So when we say he’s utilitarian it’s to mean he makes what is of use and when we say abstract modernist it’s to say he creates a design language recognisable to him without compromising the garment the wearer or himself.

I have to note he covers himself in controversy being so soon out as he is prone to profane outbursts calling out designers like Virgil Abloh for instance, turning his nose up at designers who may not be like him, you would think as an artist he would be more considerate of others feelings, yet he’s not. He leaves room for him to be memed as a tyrant that feels more prestige because of his pedigree having been to CSM and worked for certain labels. As an artist that talks about other artists as well I refrain from sending harsh or profane language someone’s way and if I critique its to be constructive because I want there to be a better intention for great work. I do see he is a whole person as an artist you buy into him and if you are cool with him you can be cool with his clothes. Maybe he comes from a space of love for the craft but I don’t see it as a valuable use of time talking about other designers this way as you are trying to come out of relative obscurity, not that I think it hurt or helps but that’s how I see it.

He shares a space with no one and may be here to define a new way or new lane for designers as a whole and create a language for men at mass, we are looking forward to something new as he has laid a foundation with these firsts collections, his work seems to have some sort of factory setting so it would be fun to see something different pushing his boundaries but there is something to be said for someone who is consistently showing greatness within the bounds they laid for themselves.

This is my Rookie Kiko

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

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Spring Of The Rookie

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OYOS: A Year Completed, I love Life, God has given me more — The Movement of My Dial

Peace Blessings and Salutations

We go again,

The past year has been full of pain, terror anguish and anxiety. My success has also been incompatible to any other year prior. This is what I learned from it, don’t let what is done to you cripple you, don’t dwell on the defeat of a comrade or the loss of a loved one too long. The spirit of greatness stays and always remember the good as it is and don’t have it tainted jade or glazed over by the the spirit of nostalgia. What’s good is good and what’s done is done.

My life has been littered with pain and in my early 20’s it crippled me. I had to cut out the tumour cauterise the wound and live to fight another day, last year I decided I was ready to fight again and in that I have come by some amazing things

My writing is beloved and exalted by those who read it the message is conveyed and they understand my theories and what I have to offer the world. It’s quite astounding

I have performed at the highest level I ever have doing anything on any level. The only thing that comes close is my world building but even that doesn’t come close to the 150 articles I’ve wrote this year

This year I became an upstanding member of my community offering my help to those that need it and helped the kids that needed the information I had to offer.

My peers see what I do with astonishment and pizzazz, they beckon me to be a co-producer on the productions due to the skill and execution I use on my productions.

Ive created a fair few writing brands under the banner of NYTYPICAL along with the critically regarded Sickle Cell Companion used in hospitals by nurses.

So to say, I am an upstanding member of my community doing everything I can in my power I could do, even on 60% strength on average. That is something I can be proud of. I can do that much service as a whole while serving my career.

This is what I want to continue in more ways furthering to heights no one knew were possible.

This is the Movement of my Dial

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Damilare. Not Your Typical

Follow my socials Instagram: @nytypical Twitter: @nytypical

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS  

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays 

 On My series work

Spring Of The Rookie

Sickle Cell Companion

Owning Your Own Ship

Collect my first book on kindle pre-order

Spring Of the Rookie Epilogue 1– Start something you see yourself doing long term

Spring Of The Rookie,

As you’ll notice all the “rookies” I have spoke about are not exactly rookies they have all been in this game close to ten years and their recognition is just coming.

When you look into each one of their stories from beginning to now you can tell they’re only getting started on the plan that they really have. They are only really executing on what their real vision is now after getting essential pieces into play.

That’s why I dubbed it springtime of the rookie. It’s the season to plant and cultivate the projects that you really want to take shape

I am not really good with planning or really that intelligent. We can only see with the information we have right now and having one big go you fervently want to see come to life is the driving Force to the action taking place today so you can fulfil it.

I want people to look into the people that they think are successes and really study them, if you can’t see the patterns then that fine and dandy keep trying. If you can then there’s a way you can conceptualise the information for your betterment.

If you feel or understand me, you can see why I take time to write blogs about other designers like myself. I’m not a journalist or reporter I like to take down what I find important and keep that information stored. I love people can gravitate towards it this to me is fun but to you it can be much more. I appreciate that tremendously

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

For The Collection of Spring Of The Rookie 

My Rookies

YOON Verbal Ambush: Minimalist Renegade 

Samuel Ross: 50 Shades of Concrete 

JW Anderson: Ravers in Daytime

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays 

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS  

Follow my socials

Instagram: @nytypical Twitter: @nytypical Facebook: fb.me/nytypical