An Intro — Vibram the new player in industrial footwear and sneakers

We go again

I seen this name a couple of times in 2018 then it made headway all throughout 2019 I just had to write a quick blog about it.

It is effecting the culture and bridging the gap in tech for creating better footwear. The main thing about small footwear companies is the tech they use to make sneakers, it’s appalling and tough to stand on. There is nothing more uncomfortable than a company that doesn’t take in consideration the technology they use for soles.

Vibram is bridging that gap. Being a Development company that has been around for 80 years making mould for footwear and sport now they are rearing their head in the cultures companies.

If you didn’t know the creation of things like Boost, Zoom and Air technology is expensive to develop and takes so much time to research and test companies usually skimp on that part and chop together some sort of make shift model to sell to customers and if they do research the sneaker is incredibly expensive to buy because there is no mass production or order of the trainer (a topic for another day) simply put making a trainer is super expensive.

Vibram are the guys helping these companies getting the research out the way and focus on design. They have collaborated with the likes of Off White and Alyx removing the trouble of having these companies develop sole and midsole technology.

I really am keeping an eye on them but for now this is the intro to the sole company Vibram

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Urahara Sanin: The Bridge of culture from Soho to Harajuku— The perspective of a London Millennial

We go again,

prelude

I started this blog in December 2018, I just wanted to take my time with it and it’s so intensive with information I’m starting to understand where this is taking me. More importantly

The ascension of local artist and people into the mainstream light is a tough and arduous one, one so tough it’s likened to a heroes journey and people are made idols because of it. What does one do when they reach the grand stage? A place where people perform at the highest calibre. How does an artist use this responsibility at the grand stage? And in which ways can this new responsibility be used to inspire the next generation?

A 90’s Baby Purview

I’ve got a story to tell a story of the men who constructed the silk lined highway from the Japan to the United States which I peered up at through my telescope from my bedroom in London. The culture that’s far from mine but is blended together by stands of very great artist who reach amazing heights and magnified those that were only in the peripheral of the culture. I’m talking about none other than Pharrell & Kanye West.

Names you have heard more than once & for good reason, truly paved the way traversed a road untraveled to create a genre of style that is synonymous with hip-hop and black America, typically unslanderible. Good thing this isn’t a slander blog, it’s about the joining of Japanese art and hip-hop inspired clothing meshed with hip-hop artists creating harmony and exposing a whole new generation to the joys of Japan.

Mainly for me, my exposure to Japan was Dragonball Z – before I even knew what anime was – the cartoons stood to influence me for 20 years to come. As I sought greater storytelling faculties I was drawn closer and closer to the world of anime and the fashion it inspired the youth I grew up with; all over the UK and America, it can even be seen as a unifying factor.

Early era Fashion

We were already indoctrinated into the idea that Japanese art is high art and it only got reinforced with the streetwear brand known as Bape. Pharrell williams and Nigo would influence the youth in the most dramatic way we’ve seen with things we could not afford so these things had a sense of luxury to us it wasn’t streetwear it really was the most fine of garments even then. Nigo and Pharrell will go on to produce Ice Creams and Billionaires Boys Club of which I would cop from.

Teenage Years

My peers was given Kanye. I wasn’t so fond of Kanye these days not until MBDTF I was still a hardcore rap fan there were some good tunes on all the albums but I never heard anything like Fantasy before and that what made me gravitate towards him. What he did do was give us great character animation but what I did notice was the unusual teddybear where I would later find out was a collab with Virgil and Murakami, even then it was high concept and fused with Japanese essence.

Their denim was what I was aware of Evisu and ksubis I don’t know why but I was well aware of Japanese denim the story escapes me I just know Ed Hardy Avirex only later would I discover Undercover and Kapital but evisu and Ksubi was on the map and putting men in more quality garments out doing Levi for a moment before the end of the skinny jeans era

Recent History

You have Ian Connor and Luka Sabbat and the Donda team changed the landscape of fashion from 2010. Seeping our of the music and into the cultural fabric of streetwear. As Facebook groups for fashion became a thing, soho became the runway and the street kids of Europe started to develop a voice the ever living holy land for street wear known as the Urahara Movement in the backstreets of Harajuku became a beacon for all those that aspired to the level of luxury that was Raf Simons tenure at Dior, Galliano, Jeremy Scott Undercover, Kapital, induced by yeezy, off white, Heron Preston and Pyrex 23 and hbx

Our history of streetwear is not just the kid of hip hop but of punk & grunge, Rock & Roll, the kids forgotten by the fashion houses who ended up being represented by the people they adored secondly and those that spoke to them.


Editor Note

The ethics of streetwear will always remain a subculture ethic. If there’s a forgotten class there will always be something great that is bred by the need and someone who comes from there but sees into the future.

For 30 years Streetwear has remained consistent overtime catering to those that needed it and didn’t need to grow out of it. Now in the time of the great information distribution the stories are all interlinked; kids that listened to steely dan speak the same language of clothing as those that listened to Snoop Dogg through fashion. It’s the great I know.

I love it

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

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Spring of the Rookie: Samuel Ross and A-Cold-Wall* 50 Shades of Concrete

Spring of The Rookie We go again,

Samuel Ross is a name you’ll hear in circles that are in circles that are in circles with a guy that is about his business.

As the premier black fashion designer in London who actually designs, which I gave not to in my Techwear intro blog.

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What he’s gave black art is yet to be of high note but as I said his audience is niche, they’re direct, he communicates with us and happy to see him do what he’s doing.

He’s worked with the likes of Kanye and for Virgil I believe and had his start with A Cold Wall* in 2014 to not get my dates confused. How I heard of him was a really odd way, don’t feel to write about it (that’s how odd it was) alas.

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He’s on my radar working and that show in 2018 For SS19 the imagery was striking and I couldn’t look away and immediately said he’s more creative than most.

When I hear of his background I wonder why his merchandising volume isn’t larger he does however have 3 pairs of Nike’s under his belt all carrying the same aesthetic.

This is where he and I collide, I love finding that thing that can attract me to the person and finding they’re more than just a money maker, he communicates using a philosophy.

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As many may understand it’s not easy to do because you have to live that way also and make it an ethos.

He uses artistic sense and a history knowledge of brutalist art and architecture mashing that with how he see the world and creates clothes using textures that are uncommon but perpetuate the feel of the philosophy activating the senses and allowing one to be engulfed by said philosophy

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Brutalism polymers roughcast, concrete, sandbox, philosophy, London, subculture. It is in these things that make A Cold Wall what it is.

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

For The Collection of Spring Of The Rookie 

My Rookies

YOON Verbal Ambush: Minimalist Renegade || Sneakers Air Max 180 & Converse

Samuel Ross: 50 Shades of Concrete  ||Sneakers Air Force 1 & Vomero +5

JW Anderson: Ravers in Daytime || Sneakers & Converse