NYT Style: CCP of Style — Confidence Comfort Provocative

Bless up from your feet to your head top

We go again,

Continuing on from my The Fur – I want everyone to know you can wear fur, just look after it and air it out, dry clean and brush it, Just like any other garment you have to cater to. Really simple and if its made well it wont lose volume, this is all down to your own discretion.

The Fur Standard

Much like everyone else they have a usual when it comes to styling something especially “luxurious” (to them)

With a Burberry shirt, the shirt is the Center of the outfit, why should anything else be ? So I’m going to wear the regular jean shirt combo with trainers, no boots.

With the Balenciaga triple S trainer that ends up being the highlight of the outfit if it’s the most expensive item you have on so the decision to make that the Center is almost a non negotiable

With a Birkin there’s a concerted effort to dress up to the Birkin as ‘it’s not a usual handbag’ so you dress around it in order to “level up” your style, nothing especially extraordinary, a handbag that’s out of the range.

The Center of Style

The Center of style motif is the reason I wore my outfit the way I did, there is not one draw in point but multiple. The center of style is the rudiment but in order to be exceptional my ostentatious spirit chooses to have multiple draw in points

I’m not talking about mixing brand names or wearing all one this is about what pairs well with the garments I have to further express myself and not the garment, it’s about what feels good and what is sensible style. Like I say men don’t dress for what women dress for, most men dress to go somewhere or do a particular thing. The easier it is to do the more willing they are to wear a garment.

Presence in Style

Being able to spread the attraction with garments just as ostentatious raises the flavour and character of the outfit, spreading the eye-candy around giving off different flavours and express yourself in multiple areas, this gives you and your outfit more presence.

For me comfortable ostentatious confidence is where my head is i need to be comfortable provocative and confident to feel I’m doing my best in style. leaving your house is a performance and for me to perform at my very best I need provocation thought and thorough confidence.

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

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Spring Of The Rookie

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Spring of The Rookie Kiko Kostadinov – The way of the Dark Stallion

Bless up from your feet to your head top

We go again

I first encountered Kiko after his SS18 collection but in 2019 I wasn’t sure if I was late or early to the party but I was sure he was doing the right thing. This relative unknown then became the dark horse in the race to evolve menswear.

Kiko and his ASICS collab have had him in the sights of many men in fashion wanting more from him and wanting well of him, he seems to provoke in men what Chanel was said to have provoked in women back in her day. We see Kiko garner the attention of men all over wanting the uniform of ‘a man’, this really interests me as I have been working on my menswear thesis for quite some time Kiko seems to design in alignment to some of my brief. And as a relatively new and fairly obscure designer it seems he has a formula to bring more men into fashion.

This is why he is part of the Spring of the Rookie, I pick my rookies due to years in the game, Kiko Debut in 2017 and if you aren’t looking for him you may not find him but much like Sam Ross I feel his vigour and his energy is oxygen to the flame of the new Menswear ethos. Reason being you see Kiko here, I enjoy being on the right side of history and this man is my second gamble he may become a pillar of the community or a slab that lay the foundation this is my lot to say the former. I see him as someone that can grow into potentially one of the top designers of our generation given time and guidance

Kiko began his journey in Belgium of all places moving to the U.K. as a teen and going to Central Saint Martins. Already his story is quite interesting as an immigrant coming to London to study fashion is nary a thing you hear of, the creative arts is something that’s feared by immigrant families because its nature is due to a gamble not everyone is here to make it. My guess is Kiko bet on himself enough to get the funds to educate himself in fashion, as hard as it may be he done it as a man. I rarely hear stories of people coming to the U.K. to make it in Creative industries let alone business these stories are usually reserved for America. I believe this start is what draws certain men to Kiko that understanding of someone who decided to go for his dream and achieve it in a land he didn’t know. Whether he will stay here due to the U.K. laws on art and entrepreneurship, that’s a conversation for a different day. Kiko is here and men love him right now.

As a designer Kiko Kostadinov focuses highly on tailoring using his eye for utility his garments are very structured and he seems to challenge himself pushing the way he references and the kind of garments he constructs. The type of shapes and patterns he uses as details remind me of 70’s Abstract Modernism work, found in his beloved Belgium maybe Thomas Kapsalis morso Karel Maes if I do say so myself the shapes and colours certainly do seem inspired in that direction and that to me has me tip my hat of to him as someone drawing from his home and creating work that is representative of all things that are him.

Functionally his clothes seem to focus heavily on masculine aesthetic shows me so much about himself, his ethos certainly shows itself through his clothes and it is fair to say he enjoys his work. He seems to consider so much from his references in art to the designers and film. He doesn’t romanticise men but sees them how they are and enjoys being one, if that is an honest turn of phrase. So when we say he’s utilitarian it’s to mean he makes what is of use and when we say abstract modernist it’s to say he creates a design language recognisable to him without compromising the garment the wearer or himself.

I have to note he covers himself in controversy being so soon out as he is prone to profane outbursts calling out designers like Virgil Abloh for instance, turning his nose up at designers who may not be like him, you would think as an artist he would be more considerate of others feelings, yet he’s not. He leaves room for him to be memed as a tyrant that feels more prestige because of his pedigree having been to CSM and worked for certain labels. As an artist that talks about other artists as well I refrain from sending harsh or profane language someone’s way and if I critique its to be constructive because I want there to be a better intention for great work. I do see he is a whole person as an artist you buy into him and if you are cool with him you can be cool with his clothes. Maybe he comes from a space of love for the craft but I don’t see it as a valuable use of time talking about other designers this way as you are trying to come out of relative obscurity, not that I think it hurt or helps but that’s how I see it.

He shares a space with no one and may be here to define a new way or new lane for designers as a whole and create a language for men at mass, we are looking forward to something new as he has laid a foundation with these firsts collections, his work seems to have some sort of factory setting so it would be fun to see something different pushing his boundaries but there is something to be said for someone who is consistently showing greatness within the bounds they laid for themselves.

This is my Rookie Kiko

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

If you want to donate to help out this growing platform all patronage is welcome https://www.paypal.me/DYusuff

Follow my socials Instagram: @NYTypical Twitter: @ARAHofNYT

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS  

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays 

 On My series work

Spring Of The Rookie

Sickle Cell Companion

Black Renaissance: Future History – 2020 Vision

Bless up from your feet to your head top

We go again,

This here again is Future History and I’m proud to say I love what I’ve been seeing and some things are just

I can not possibly consume all their content at a go but at one time or another I have keyed into what they have to say, kept my ear to the street on what they were talking about and understanding their following. An audience interaction is so key to see, the way the people vibe with your product holds the key to your success and in a world where everyone is talking on the internet I like to see the type of questions someone will be asking these people; the reactions are such a key part to me spotting a good community. People will talk and talk and can even fool you with presentation that they have substance but reality is after a while all you’re left with is your word and people will see through that facade sooner or later, they will dull with your content and your journey and just leave you in their wake.

This list isn’t about the people with the most followers or most views but the people that deliver content with the intent to help at least, deliver a well packaged product and really want to look after people and the community. Not to mention people I just want to talk about and have on record that they are visible because the worst thing that can happens to someone in this space is to feel invisible and for all black renaissance purposes it’s about visibility to the nth degree, exceptional behaviour, and great business with the eyes that eye can see.

I’m not gonna have everyone which means I get to do this more than just once, I can come back next year and do another one. I just want to either introduce or just plainly give props to people doing their thing in the space where they do it. Not to vouch for their whole character – or co-sign them and their whole humanity, as this year we’ve seen that’s not what we can do for everyone – but to co-sign their content and say in the least it’s worth a look.

I’ve compiled a list of multiple sectors with people in industries where their businesses need visibility, from Tech & Finance to Broadcasting & Entertainment as well as Sport. Relevant to the repertoire of excellence and community empowerment.

Whatever Moves Your Dial

Damilare. Not Your Typical

If you want to donate to help out this growing platform all patronage is welcome https://www.paypal.me/DYusuff

Engage with my socials Instagram: @nytypical Twitter: @arahofnyt

To learn more about Owning Your Own Ship – OYOS  

Please check out Some of my Thoughts On:

For some longer form write ups Read some of My Dialogues

Click here for my Essays 

 On My series work

Spring Of The Rookie

Sickle Cell Companion